The Trench Coat in Vintage Cinema

Style Focus: Trench Coat

In Vintage Cinema

What’s a better way to begin the New Year than in style?

With that in mind, my newsletter and blog series will be published regularly about THE classic timeless pieces, key to an effortless chic style in all occasions.

Starting with the trench coat, the perfect staple item seamlessly passing through eras and seasons. From its historic and practical use to its impact in vintage cinema, let's discover what makes the trench so iconic...

No other piece of outerwear has been so profusely used in cinema than the trench. With its clean lines, subtle tailoring and versatile taupe colour, the trench is a rare item that pairs well with nearly any situation, period, or genre a filmmaker can dream up.

Trench: The non-negotiable of Films Noirs

A mysterious enigma to resolve, the weather often rainy, the atmosphere heavy with its underlying romanticism, the lighting highly contrasted; all these elements of Film Noir made the trench coat a perfect garment for this genre.

The film noir “Laura” revolves around the investigation of Gene Tierny’s apparent death. On a showery night, the upheaval of her seeming "resurrection" causes every main character to make a dramatic entry in their trench coats…

Trench Scenes in Film Noir "Laura" starring Gene Tierney

Film Noir "Laura", 1944 starring Gene Tierney

In “The Strange Love of Martha Ivers”, an atmosphere of tension reigns throughout the film. Lizabeth Scott as « Antonia », just got out of prison, young and alone in the world, with only a suitcase in hand.

She repeatedly and half heartedly attempts to leave rainy Pennsylvania by bus, torn between danger, obligations and her own desire to stay. This leads us to think of the trench as a metaphor of both protection against the weather and against the ruling ‘wolfs of the world’… Her act is striking and memorable in its intensity.

Dramatic scenes of Lizabeth Scott in Film Noir

"The Strange Love of Martha Ivers", 1946 starring Lizabeth Scott

From melancholic roles to Hollywood stars off set

In these two movies (below), the trench accentuates the mysterious secretive character of Dietrich and Loren's roles, both strong women but deep down they have a lot of heart.

Black and White scenes of Marlene Dietrich and Sophia Loren wearing a trench

Marlene Dietrich in "A Foreign Affair", 1948 and Sophia Loren in "The Key", 1958

In "Let's Make Love", the trench is represented as a popular wardrobe staple that starlets and theatre actors wear after work. By doing so, Marilyn Monroe brings a very joyful and down-to-earth character to the trench.

She was, in fact, a major proponent to the trench being so widely popular in our society!

Yves Montand and Marilyn Monroe street scene, both wearing a trench

"Let's Make Love", 1960 starring Marilyn Monroe and Yves Montand

Backstage shot of Marilyn Monroe and Movie team preparing a scene of “Let’s Make Love”, 1960

Backstage shot of Marilyn Monroe and movie team preparing a scene, 1960

Back to the war origins on pretty French blondes

In the two French Romantic Comedies "Babette s'en va en guerre" starring Bardot and "Les Parapluies de Cherbourg" with Deneuve, the war theme creates an interesting correlation with the military history of the trench coat. The origins of the name comes from high officers and soldiers wearing them in the trenches during the First World War.

Bardot and military men

"Babette s'en va-t-en Guerre", 1959 starring Brigitte Bardot

A very memorable parting scene takes place while the train is slowly leaving into the distance, Deneuve is singing her last 'Je t'aime', her hair and coat blowing in the wind, left alone on the platform...

The trench is loosely worn (with the belt unattached) as if she just threw it on without thinking, which enhances the sentimental and saddened mood of the moment.

Romantic movie scenes of Catherine Deneuve and Nino Castlenuovo in The Umbrellas of Cherbourg

"Les Parapluies de Cherbourg", 1964 starring Catherine Deneuve and Nino Castelnuovo

Whether you want to look dramatically mysterious or personify French elegance, the trench is definitely a classic and timeless must have!

Modelling in a trench at the train station

Finally, if you are looking to purchase an original vintage trench coat, to be the main actress of your own movie, I have listed a few below you can choose from. But, be quick, they are unique and always sell out rapidly!

Last but not least, I have created a video with a quick summary on the trench culture and how to style it as a "modern woman with vintage aspirations".

This is my first EVER newsletter article, so if you have any feedback or advice, feel free to answer this email. I'd love to hear from you and know your thoughts about it!

Sending so much love,

Jamila